Rabbit Health & Care
Ontario Rabbit Education Organization - www.ontariorabbits.org
House Rabbit Society - www.rabbit.org
Medi Rabbit - www.medirabbit.com
If you have any questions please contact us at info@urbanrabbit.org.
Diet
General Diet Information
Rabbits have complex digestive systems that are designed to efficiently
process food. Care must be taken not to disrupt the delicate balance
of their intestinal flora by introducing new foods too quickly, or
giving foods which are unsuitable. A disruption of the intestinal flora
can make a rabbit very ill. Rabbits should typically have a nutritious
daily diet of hay, fresh vegetables and pellets. Treat foods, such
as fruit, should be fed sparingly.
Young rabbits (under 7 months old) need a different, more restrictive
diet than adults. For example, babies under 3 weeks need mother's milk.
At 3-4 weeks, babies should have mother's milk, along with small amounts
of hay and pellets. At 4-7 weeks, they should continue to nurse, but
pellets and hay can gradually be increased. Between 7 weeks and 7 months,
young rabbits should be given unlimited pellets and hay. At 12 weeks,
you can start to introduce fresh vegetables. Start feeding vegetables
slowly and discontinue any that cause soft, runny stool.
Daily recommended diet for an adult rabbit (over 8 months):
- Fresh water
- Unlimited access to timothy or other grass hay
- Minimum of 2 cups of fresh veggies per 6 lbs. body weight per day
- 1/8 cup of pellets per 2-4 lbs. of body weight
Please note that this is a generic dietary guideline. Not all
rabbits will tolerate, or even like, exactly the same foods. It isimportant
to find foods that are suitable for your rabbit. It is also important
not to change your rabbit's diet too quickly.
Additional Information:
- www.carrotcafe.com
This site includes such information as a discussion on brands of pellets, why commercially processed treats are not the best choice for your rabbit and dietary requirements for special needs rabbits. - http://www.rabbit.org/chapters/san-diego/diet/graphics/Food_Chart.pdf
To learn more about what foods your bunny's diet should contain, and treats that can be harmful, see "Rabbit Food Pyramid" from House Rabbit Society in San Diego. - http://www.rabbit.org/journal/3-3/digestibility.html - This article talks about how rabbits process sugar, protein and fibre.
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Hay
Hay is the most important part of your rabbit's diet. It is high in fibre, which keeps the digestive tract moving, helping to prevent blockages and stasis. In addition, hay helps to sustain healthy teeth by reducing the risk of molar spurs. It also allows your rabbit to satisfy his urge to chew.
Because alfalfa has more protein, calories and calcium than adult rabbits generally require, adult rabbits should be given an unlimited amount of grass hay, such as timothy, brome or orchard grass, etc, to graze on each day. Rabbits up to approximately 7 months old can be fed unlimited alfalfa hay, although grass hay can be fed, too.
Good hay should be green, rather than brown, and should smell like grass. Never feed moldy hay, because it can make your rabbit seriously ill. Moldy hay may contain white dust, or black and/or white spots on the bale. If you drop the bale and a lot of white dust flies up, it could be a sign of mold. Thistles and other weeds should be picked out of the hay before serving, because some weeds, such as milkweed (a thick, fibrous stemmed plant with broad elongated leaves) are toxic.
Hay can be purchased at any pet store. It is more economical, however, to find a farmer who specializes in growing hay for horses. If you have three or more rabbits, you will use a bale pretty quickly. Hay grown for cows is generally not suitable for bunnies.
Where can you find hay in your area? It isn't always easy to know which farmers grow hay, especially when you live in the city. Farmers in various counties across Ontario describe the type and size of bales of hay that they are selling in local papers or on-line. If you are lucky, you will find a farmer in your county that is selling small square bales that you can purchase. If a whole bale is too much for your bunnies, consider purchasing a bale and sharing it with other rabbit owners in your area or with your local shelter.
Hay: Understanding the basics and the many types availableVegetables
Vegetables can be an important part of a rabbit's balanced diet. For
rabbits who drink little water, fresh vegetables can help to provide
much needed hydration. It is important to realize, however, that some
rabbits tolerate vegetables well, while others may suffer from gas or
runny stools if they consume too many or the wrong kind of vegetables.
Try to offer rabbits who tolerate vegetables well an assortment of vegetables
daily. A typical daily serving of vegetables would be approximately 2
cups per 6 lbs of
body weight.
New veggies should be introduced slowly, even when your rabbit is used to eating fresh food. Start by giving your rabbit a small quantity of a new veggie, then check for soft stools, diarrhea or gas. A rabbit with gas may shift around excessively, sit hunched up or press his stomach into the ground. If any of these problems occur, do not feed any more of that vegetable. You will know within 12 hours if your rabbit doesn't tolerate a particular veggie.
Try some of the following:
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* High in calcium. Although high calcium vegetables contain less digestible calcium per volume than alfalfa hay or alfalfa based pellets, it is important to note that excess dietary calcium, along with other factors, may cause bladder stones or sludge in some rabbits. In addition, consuming vegetables that are high in oxalates in large quantities or on a daily basis may cause crystals or stones to form in the kidneys.
Other things to keep in mind when feeding your rabbit fresh foods:
- Remember to wash the greens thoroughly under running water.
- Feeding your rabbit wet greens is an excellent way to increase his
water consumption.
- Never give a rabbit spoiled greens! They can make your rabbit very
ill.
- Vegetables, such as cabbage, cauliflower, and broccoli may cause
gas.
- Light coloured head lettuces, such as iceberg, have little nutritional
value.
- It is best not to give the same greens everyday. All vegetables contain various amounts of vitamins, so providing a variety ensures a more balanced diet.
Pellets
Adult rabbits (over approximately 7 - 8 months) who are no longer growing require more fibre and less protein and calcium than young, growing rabbits. Ideally, pellets should be high in fibre (a minimum 18%), low in protein (maximum content of 14% - 15%) and low in calcium (maximum 1%).
Most commercially produced rabbit pellets are alfalfa based. Timothy based pellets are higher in fibre and lower in calcium than alfalfa pellets, but are not as readily available at pet stores. However, these pellets can be ordered from most vet clinics. Timothy pellets may be beneficial for:
- Rabbits who have stones or sludge (because they have less calcium
than alfalfa based pellets).
- Rabbits who are overweight or those who suffer from intermittent soft stool (because they are lower in protein and higher in fibre than alfalfa based pellets).
Timothy pellets may not be a good choice for long haired rabbits (who need extra protein for hair growth) or thin rabbits. See "Alfalfa- and Timothy-Based Pellets: What?s the ?Skinny??" By Susan Smith for a comparison of timothy and alfalfa pellets.
Changing Your Rabbit's Diet
Some rabbits over-consume pellets, which can lead to obesity and other health problems. If your rabbit has had a diet that consisted solely of pellets, introduce grass hay and slowly add a variety of greens, while gradually reducing pellet intake. Remember to make dietary changes slowly and to watch your rabbit closely. As you limit your rabbit's pellet intake, make sure he is eating an increased amount of hay and greens. Do not restrict pellets too much if there is no other food source.
A daily guideline for pellet consumption if your rabbit is eating a lot of hay and fresh foods:
1/8 cup for 2-4 lbs body weight per day
1/4 cup for 5-7 lbs body weight per day
1/2 cup for 8-10 lbs body weight per day
3/4 cup for 11-15 lbs body weight per day
Other Points to Keep in Mind
- Thin, ill or elderly rabbits can be given more pellets to help sustain their proper weight. Please see your veterinarian if you are not sure of the proper weight for your rabbit.
- Plain pellets are a healthier choice than pellets that include seeds,
nuts, corn or dried fruit, which are unnecessarily high in sugar and
fat.
- Old/expired pellets may lose their nutritional value over time, so
do not buy too many pellets at one time. Store pellets in a cool, dry
place to keep them fresh. It is not recommended that you freeze your
rabbit's pellets to prolong shelf life because the introduction of
moisture during the thawing process and fluctuating temperatures may
be conducive to mold growth and subsequent formation of mycotoxins.
Read the following articles on the risk of mycotoxins in rabbit feed:
Mold and Mycotoxins in Rabbit Feed by: Cristina Forbes, Ph.D
Molds, Mycotoxins and Feeds: A Brief Summary by: Dr Ron Rompala
Pyloric Stenosis in Rabbits from From: National Center for Biotechnology Information - Some rabbits may never find hay and greens that appealing and will remain pellet junkies. Try not to force feed, stress or upset your rabbit when changing his diet. Like people, rabbits don't always like to eat what is best for them!
- Another good reason to limit pellets and feed your rabbit lots of hay: Pellets are softer and easier to chew than hay, while hay helps to sustain healthy teeth by reducing the risk of molar spurs.
- Remember that pellets do not need to be the main food source of a
mature rabbit's diet! It's a misconception that a rabbit should be
fed pellets exclusively. In fact, some rabbits thrive on a pellet-less
diet of hay and a variety of fresh vegetables.
Rabbit Behavior
Behaviour: Get to Know Your Rabbit
Every rabbit is different with a unique personality. Some crave attention, while others would rather be left alone. Some are shy, while others are bold and outgoing. Some are lazy, while others seem to be constantly in action. In fact, there are probably as many different rabbit personalities as there are rabbits!
Getting to know your rabbit and learning to understand your rabbit's behaviour
is the key to building a solid relationship with him. To earn your rabbit's
trust, start by spending some time on the floor with him, and interact
with him at his level. For example, you could sit on the floor and read
a book. Rabbits are very curious by nature, and even a timid rabbit will
not be able to resist investigating you. Don't make sudden movements and
your rabbit will approach you more often.
Knowing what is normal behaviour for your rabbit can also be instrumental
in catching an
illness at an early stage. If a once calm, adorable bunny starts to misbehave
and become destructive, you need to analyze the situation to determine
what has changed or gone wrong. Your rabbit is trying to
communicate and it's up to you try to understand.
For more detailed information on "rabbit speak" visit the Language of Lagomorphs website.
Download Behaviour Guide (47K, .PDF file)
Rabbit Health
As prey animals, rabbits are notorious for hiding health problems. Many times, they will not even let their owners know there is cause for alarm until they are very ill. For this reason, it is important to know your rabbit's daily routine. Look for changes in behaviour such as listlessness, withdrawal or aggression, and note even the slightest change.
As a rabbit owner, it is important to be able to recognize signs of pain. Rabbits who are in pain may stop eating and go into stasis. Although rabbits mask pain well, there are some signs of pain that you should learn to recognize. A rabbit who is in pain may sit in a hunched position with his belly pressed to the floor, appear to be unable to get comfortable or loudly grind his teeth.
Any visible signs such as discharge from eyes, nose, digging at the ears, or lumps should be checked by a veterinarian. To help prevent potential health problems, always take your pet to a rabbit knowledgeable vet for regular checkups or when an illness is suspected.
Download General Health Guide (140K,
.PDF file)
Gastrointestinal Problems
Rabbits have very long, complicated and sensitive digestive tracts. If their system slows down or shuts down they can become ill very quickly. If your rabbit has not eaten or has not been interested in food for 12 hours there is cause for alarm. Don't hesitate to see a qualified vet ASAP. It is important that your rabbit receive immediate care and remain hydrated.
Rabbits who are in pain from other ailments, such as ear infections, molar spurs, or respiratory infection, may not be interested in eating. Be sure to explore all possibilities with your vet to find a cause for the rabbit's lack of interest in food.
Sufficient fibre intake is essential and will help ingested fur pass through your rabbit's system. Regularly brushing your rabbit is also essential to remove excess fur so that it isn't ingested during grooming.
Even rabbits who eat alot of hay and are regularly brushed will sometimes go into stasis. Be prepared! Please read Gastrointestinal Stasis: The Silent Killer for information on dealing with stasis.
Additional Information: